Lobster - Tomato "Bouride" w/ saffron Espuma



This soup, a bouride, French in origin, is a garlicky seafood puree. The flesh of the fish itself is the primary thickener. I made this one heavy on the tomato and fennel to accompany the orange-saffron espuma recipe I've been developing. The flavors are basic Mediterranean, and I'm very familiar with them and the way they work together, this allowed me to focus on the experiment at hand. The espuma, or foam, is basically pressurized, flavored whipped cream with some gelatin. Absence of gelatin would cause the "fluffed" cream to "fall", or turn back into cream, immediately upon contact with the hot soup.

This exercise was to figure out what precise amount of gelatin is needed to allow the foam to slowly melt into the soup as it is eaten. Too much gelatin and the espuma turns into a gooey unpleasant clump; to little, and one may as well just drizzle the cream into the soup and not bother trying to achieve texture. I've been very unsuccessful with this sort of battle of textures in hot - cold contrasts lately. So I was very pleased when I realized that I had guessed an ideal amount the first time. The espuma held up and eased into the soup slowly, even with a hot grilled shrimp placed directly into it, yet it had a silky, creamy texture when chilled. Click on the picture to enlarge, you can see the way the espuma is melting into the soup, and offering a gradual change in texture as it slopes up toward the crest.

Now that I have the formula down I can apply it to New Virginia cuisine.

5 comments:

  1. That sounds incredible and looks beautiful on top of that. I love being able to see the progression of your cookbook, can't wait to watch as the season changes :)

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  2. Oh man. I am not even hungry but reading this is making me feel starved.

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  3. Chef: My wife and I ate at Swanks last Saturday night. I introduced myself as a reader of your blog. Just wanted to let you know that your menu is superb, the presentation was correct, and the experience was very good overall. The potato galette (I had the strip steak--spot-on meal!) lacked "wow;" needs to be tricked up to serve as more than a starch: consider doing as a gratin, cream/chicken base in a boat, as the portion was too large. My wife had the shrimp and grits--rave reviews. She also had the caprese salad, also a winner! Beautiful tomatoes, really good mozzarella. I had the lamb meatballs with harissa; great off-beat appetizer, really good, perfect portion--consider offering with pita toasts. By the way, the wine menu is really, really good: Sinskey pinot is great, the Chappellet cab and Trefethen chardonnay are both winners (we've been to all three, and can assure you that their product is superior--they're also really good people, if that matters, and I believe it should). If you can source good oysters, you ought to consider offering them; an attachment to the region would be a plus. We'll be back, Matt---great job.

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  4. Chef: My wife and I ate at Swanks last Saturday night. I introduced myself as a reader of your blog. Just wanted to let you know that your menu is superb, the presentation was correct, and the experience was very good overall. The potato galette (I had the strip steak--spot-on meal!) lacked "wow;" needs to be tricked up to serve as more than a starch: consider doing as a gratin, cream/chicken base in a boat, as the portion was too large. My wife had the shrimp and grits--rave reviews. She also had the caprese salad, also a winner! Beautiful tomatoes, really good mozzarella. I had the lamb meatballs with harissa; great off-beat appetizer, really good, perfect portion--consider offering with pita toasts. By the way, the wine menu is really, really good: Sinskey pinot is great, the Chappellet cab and Trefethen chardonnay are both winners (we've been to all three, and can assure you that their product is superior--they're also really good people, if that matters, and I believe it should). If you can source good oysters, you ought to consider offering them; an attachment to the region would be a plus. We'll be back, Matt---great job.

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  5. Anonymous, Thanks again.

    Oysters: we do in fact keep local oysters on the menu, they had been rotated out for a few days as new menu settled in, you missed them by one day. During the winter months I make Oyster stew to order. There is a picture on the blog.

    Thank You!

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